Berkley Square is officially a Historic Place

It's official!  Berkley Square, designed by mid-century modern architect, Paul Revere Williams, was the first subdivision to be built in Nevada by and for African-American residents of Las Vegas.  It is now on the National Registry of Historic Places!

 

The historic Berkley Square Neighborhood, located in West Las Vegas, has been listed in the National Register of Historic Places.  The Register, a National Park Service Program, is the nation’s official list of cultural resources worthy of recognition and preservation. The city of Las Vegas Planning & Development Department nominated the neighborhood on behalf of the Berkley Square residents after a consultant’s report found that the neighborhood met the National Register criteria for historic district designation.

  “I am thrilled that the National Park Service has recognized this important and historic neighborhood. This is truly an incredible honor for our community,” Ward 5 Councilman Ricki Y. Barlow said.  

 The Berkley Square Historic District is located about one and one-half miles from downtown Las Vegas near Owens Avenue and D Street, and is bound by Byrnes and Leonard avenues on the north and south, respectively, and G and D Streets on the west and east, respectively.

The district includes 148 homes constructed in 1954-55 in the Contemporary Ranch style with two models that varied by roof type, porch overhang and façade finishes and fenestration. The neighborhood was designed according to Federal Housing Administration standards of the day, showing concern for traffic and pedestrian safety with limited access points and sidewalks separated from the streets by a grass strip.

Berkley Square is the first subdivision to be built in Nevada by and for African-American residents of Las Vegas. It was designed in 1949 by Paul R. Williams, an internationally-known African-American architect from Los Angeles who made great strides for his race in the profession.

The developers and builders comprise an A-list of prominent African-American community activists and civic leaders, including financier Thomas L. Berkley, an attorney, media owner, developer and civil rights advocate from Oakland, Calif. It was also financed by Edward A. Freeman and J. J. Byrnes of Los Angeles. The developer was Leonard A. Wilson of Las Vegas. Construction was supervised by Harry L. Wyatt of the Las Vegas firm Burke and Wyatt.  Massie L. Kennard, a Las Vegas civil rights leader, was the real estate agent.

Berkley Square contributed to improving living conditions for the city’s African-American community, and represented the advances that were being made as a result of local activism in the community in the late 1940s and early 1950s. It is additionally representative of the massive building boom that took place in Las Vegas and across the country in the post-war era, and retains good integrity as a residential suburb of that time.

 

Dr. Lonnie Cancels Annual Nevada Day Open House

In case you are wondering why we haven't been asking for volunteers to help with Dr. Lonnie Hammargren's annual Nevada Day Open House this month, the reason is Dr. Lonnie has canceled the annual event due to family obligations.

He promises that the event will return next year.

In the meantime, here is the story from the R-J:

Dr. Lonnie Hammargren is one of the valley's more colorful characters and owns of one of the area's most unusual homes.

The past 15 years, Nevada's former lieutenant governor has opened his home in the Paradise Crest neighborhood, near Flamingo and Sandhill roads, for tours on Nevada Day. This year, for only the second time since he and his wife began the tradition, the Oct. 31 party is off.

"I had heart surgery just before Nevada Day one year," Hammargren said. "This year, it's a bunch of things that led to us deciding to hold off on it."

Hammargren cited a couple reasons:

• His wife, Sandy, is recovering from knee surgery to repair a sports-related injury from her teens.

• Much of the time Hammargren typically spends preparing the home for visitors will be consumed by a pair of trips across country, one to visit family and an ill friend in Minnesota, and the other to see the grandkids in Florida and attend the 90th annual meeting of the Theodore Roosevelt Association.

"Roosevelt is my ego ideal," Hammargren said. "I've been following in his footsteps all my life, which I didn't realize at first."

Perhaps the more pressing reason is a result of formal complaints that have been filed with Clark County. Hammargren has decided to hold off on the event while he works to get the property up to building codes.

Although the Nevada Day tour is popular, attracting thousands of visitors each year, Hammargren's neighbor Barbara Robinson, who acknowledges she's behind many of the complaints, isn't sad to see it take a year off.

"I love Lonnie, but I can't stand his house," Robinson said in a front yard interview with Hammargren standing nearby. "Would you like to live with that in your neighborhood?"

Over the years, Hammargren has made additions and connected the buildings on his property with bridges. One building includes a dome hidden beneath a more traditional roof. That same building is topped with an unfinished model of Stonehenge.

"We've limited the roof to 35 feet," Hammargren said. "I've had teams of inspectors on the roof checking that out."

He did note that in order to have people walking on the roof, a safety rail is required, and that rail rises 42 inches above the 35 feet. The presence of people on the roof, particularly during special events, is one of the things that irks Robinson the most.

"You're out there by your pool in your bathing suit, and there's someone walking along the roof, and what are they looking at? My yard," Robinson said.

Hammargren said he built a low, plywood wall to block the view into Robinson's yard from the catwalk. Prior to the wall's construction, a 20-foot balance scale holding models of UNLV and UNR could be seen from Robinson's backyard. The building has all manner of objects attached to it and on top of it. Hammargren has purchased, salvaged or collected the items over the years. These days, people just call him up when they have something unusual that needs a home.

"That stuff in there, nobody wants it," Robinson said. "Ask him how much he paid for it. People just give it to him instead of throwing it out."

Aside from being flat-out strange, Robinson contends, Hammargren's collection is a nuisance and draws unwanted traffic and attention to the otherwise quiet neighborhood.

"You get a lot of lookie loos," she said. "We're just trying to get home, and they'll be creeping down the road, blocking traffic."

Robinson says the house has gotten stranger over the years. She pointed out a few rooftop embellishments: a life-size elephant, with its posterior facing the neighborhood; a giant orange hand; a barbecue grill.

"It wasn't like this when I moved here," Robinson said. "I'm not crazy."

Three years ago, she decided to ask the county to get Hammargren to stop the expansion of the visible collection and bring the house more in line with the rest of the neighborhood.

"I have an agreement that Lonnie signed in 1999 saying that he wasn't going to put stuff above the fence, but that's been violated 1,000 times," Robinson said. "He's gone past the height regulations. He doesn't take care of it. Stuff is broken."

Hammargren says he is doing his best to bring the house up to code. He pointed out a number of recent changes, including increasing the head clearance on some of the stairwells, reinforcing safety rails and removing some of the exhibits, such as Gary Wells' stunt motorcycle, which was mounted on a beam about 10 feet above one of the swimming pools.

"We can't comment on Dr. Hammargren's case because it's still open," Clark County spokesman Dan Kulin said.

The first step from home to self-made museum began 34 years ago, when Hammargren, concerned about the lack of science education in town, added an observatory and planetarium to his home. He said the plans were approved by Al Collins, who represented the Collins Brothers, who developed the Paradise Crest neighborhood.

"Buckminster Fuller, the world-known architect and inventor of the geodesic dome, visited here and approved the plans for my dome," Hammargren said.

Things were not always contentious between Hammargren, a prominent neurosurgeon, and Robinson. For many years, Robinson's husband was Hammargren's preferred anesthesiologist, but Hammargren retired from surgery three years ago.

"We have no anger. We have philosophical differences on what's beautiful and what's not. Why would you paint your cement red when, as soon as you do that, when the cars go over it, it's going to get dirty again?" Robinson asked. "Years ago, he used to be the entertainment in the neighborhood, but we've grown. We've outgrown Lonnie. This is not what we look on as entertainment anymore."

Sandy Hammargren disagrees. Although she has kept her husband from putting too much of his eclectic touch on the north house, where they actually live, she seems to enjoy him and his eccentricities and sees no reason to rein him in.

"The roadrunner would be easier to contain," Sandy said.

The Walter Zick/Mid-Century Modern Event

 

Moderator Lynn Zook (far left), Karen Zick Goff, Claire Zick Walker and Alan Hess

 

We had a terrific time on Saturday, October 3rd shining the spotlight on Walter Zick and his partner Harris Sharp at our all day event.

The Docents and Volunteers for the Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas prepared a wonderful spread of light finger food, punch and champagne.  The anticipated overflow crowd made us move into the History Gallery for the panel.  Wise move, because we had almost 100 people in attendance.

Alan Hess talked about what Mid-Century Modern architecture, what it is and why it is important.  He also talked about "cultural amnesia".  Our past reminds us of who we are, what ideals mattered to us and also shows us how far (or not) we have come.  Mid-Century Modern Architecture, perhaps more than others forms of architecture, caught the zeitgeist of post-war America.  We were a brash, optimistic country, filled with big dreams and big plans.  MCM architecture was filled with much of that same brashness and optimism.  Throw in the space race and there seemed no limit to what we could achieve.

"Cultural amnesia" is what we commit, according to Alan, when we tear down our buildings, signage and neighborhoods only because they are old.  We lose those links to our past and we don't easily, if at all, get them back.

Alan then spoke at length about the Mint Hotel and why the design of that building and signage still tugs at our memories after all these years.

Walter Zick's daughters, Karen and Claire talked about how their dad had come to Las Vegas in the mid-1940s to work on the Flamingo Hotel.

They talked about growing up in the  Twin Lakes (today, Lorenzi Park) neighborhood where the NSM is located today.  The first home that their father designed and built for his family is less than a mile west of the Museum on Skolgund Circle.  The house included a 50 foot pool that became a homing beacon for pilots flying into Nellis Air Force Base.

Then it was time to get on the bus! and begin our tour of Walter Zick's Mid-Century Modern Las Vegas!

Our first stop was at the Bank of America on West Charleston.  It was originally a Bank of Las Vegas, then became a Valley Bank (where my family banked) and is today still in remarkable shape.  A drop ceiling, an upstairs addition and the loss of some original windows are the only changes apparent to the interior.

Sara Snodgrass, president of the AIA-S and keeper of our route and schedule and I proclaim proudly for the National Trust for Historic Preservation that "This Place Matters"

Back on the bus and across town we rode to UNLV, passing a number of Zick and Sharp commercial buildings as well as Irwin Molasky's former headquarters and James Brook McDaniel's famous flash cubes!

We rolled onto Maude Frazier Way to see the wonderful Zick and Sharp designed Flora Dungan Humanities Building.  It is our understanding that this early 1960s centerpiece of the campus for years is endangered.

Alan Hess points out important features inside Humanities.

 

FCLV members Joel Rosales and Judy Bundorf declare "This Place Matters" for the National Trust of Historic Preservation.

 

Back on the bus, to the east side of town to see the first pod school that Zick and Sharp designed, Valley High School.  Then it was on to a neighborhood filled with Mid-Century Modern gems as well as the weeping mortar/squish brick home that Zick and Sharp built for Mayme Stocker back in the mid-1940s.

Karen and Claire Zick declare "This Place Matters" for the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

While MaryJOY! Alderman conducted tours of her unique house, Jack LeVine, Friends of Classic Las Vegas supporter and the man behind VeryVintageVegas.com, led those who had taken the house tour down nearby Maria Elena Drive and showed them some stunning homes:

 

Then it was back on the bus and headed downtown to see the Foley Federal Building, the old Clark County Courthouse and the former Nevada Savings and Loan headquarters before our final stop at the Morelli House.  Though Zick and Sharp didn't design the Morelli House, the Junior League of Las Vegas was kind enough to open the house, provide tours and perhaps, most importantly, refreshments!

 

Dedee Nave and Junior League president, Judy Beale proclaim "This Place Matters" for the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

As it was getting towards twilight, we headed back to the Museum.

We passed by the Neon Museum and saw the three restored signs in the Cultural Corridor!

We arrived safely back and everyone declared it was a great day.  We hope to be able to do another event centered around Mid-Century Modern architecture next year. 

Alan Hess and I had so many people come up to us and thank us for showing them a side of Las Vegas that they were unaware of, for showing them what Mid-Century Modern architecture is and why it is important.  

Karen and Claire were thrilled to have the spotlight shown on their father for a day and were so happy to see the response to their dad's still standing legacy. 

Remember, all these places and more MATTER!  You can help us to preserve these buildings  by becoming a member of the Friends of Classic Las Vegas and a reader of VeryVintageVegas.com

 

Downtown Steve captures the spirit of the day!

Thank you one last time to everyone who came out for this event, from the reception/panel to those who got on the bus to

Barbara Slivac; the Docents and Volunteers of the NSM, the staff of the NSM, especially Dennis McBride and Tom Dyer;

Karen and Claire Zick;  Alan Hess;

the Friends of Classic Las Vegas; VeryVintageVegas.com; Atomic Age Alliance; the Junior League of Las Vegas;

Brian "Paco" Alvarez; Pam Hartley; Zane and Jenny Donaldson, MaryJOY! Alderman and Susan Dean.   A special shout-out to the staff of Dona Maria's Downtown for taking such good care of us at the after-event dinner that night.

And lastly, a special thanks to Michael Rosetti and the Double Decker Bus Company!

Let's do it again next year!

Moulin Rouge: City of Las Vegas wants to raze the remains

 

 

 

From the R-J:

The Moulin Rouge property, once an acclaimed hotel-casino that got international attention, is a “blight” and a “monstrosity” that needs to be razed to the ground, two Las Vegas officials said today. 

“It may be safe. It may not be a nuisance anymore,” said a frustrated Mayor Oscar Goodman, noting that the new owners have boarded up buildings, cleaned up litter and fenced the property. “But it is a blight.”

Councilman Ricki Barlow, whose ward includes the property, agreed.

“It doesn’t help the neighborhood,” he said. “It does not do that corridor any justice whatsoever.

“I would like to see it taken down as soon as possible.”

Both men asked city staff to collect bids to see how much the demolition would cost.

The Moulin Rouge, on West Bonanza Road near Interstate 15, opened for a short time in 1955, but in that brief period attracted stars and notoriety because it was Las Vegas’ first racially integrated casino.

Later years were not as kind. Hotel rooms were converted to apartments, which fell into disrepair. A 2003 fire destroyed the casino, and a fire earlier this year destroyed a 40-unit building on the grounds.

Most of what’s left has been gutted and boarded up, although there are a handful of residents in condominiums on the north side of the property.

The property is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and the Las Vegas Historic Property Register, so any demolition plans would have to go before the Las Vegas Historic Preservation Commission.

Barlow said it’s “highly unlikely” that gaming will return to the property, which is in a largely industrial area.

He said whatever is eventually built there needs to bring jobs to the area and be long-lasting. Other than that, his criteria is “anything but what it is right now.”

“I’m open to a development that makes sense to the community,” he said. “I’m open to any new buyer or owner who’s looking to come and bring a development that makes sense.”

Over the years, several developers have sought to re-create the Moulin Rouge, the latest being Moulin Rouge Properties, which borrowed money in 2006 and 2007 to buy the parcel.

Financing to redevelop the site wasn’t forthcoming, however, and the lenders — Las Vegas Apartment Lenders and Olympic Coast Investment, both based in Washington — foreclosed on it.

The new owners have made it clear that they’re not interested in being developers, and are only looking for a buyer.

As with other city interventions on distressed properties, the bill for any demolition work the city does could be attached to the property as a lien that would be repaid when the property is sold.

It wasn’t clear what might be done with the Moulin Rouge tower, which survived both fires. No one talked about it at today’s meeting.

The famous multi-story sign that stood in front of the hotel-casino was removed before the latest fire and is in storage at the Neon Museum.