More info on Berkley Square in West Las Vegas!

I found this piece by Courtney Mooney on the history of Berkley Square.  Lots of info about the first subdivision for African-Americans in Las Vegas:

Rediscovering a Las Vegas Neighborhood’s African American Roots

by Courtney Mooney

 

Survey and inventory of historic resources should be an integral part of every city’s redevelopment process. This type of research is not only a valuable economic planning tool but also an exciting opportunity to unearth valuable gems, as was the case with a study of West Las Vegas, a historic, predominantly African American, area of Las Vegas, Nevada. The City of Las Vegas’s Historic Preservation Plan calls for the ongoing documentation of historic neighborhoods and properties. Each year, the City of Las Vegas Planning and Development Department applies for grant money from the National Park Service’s Historic Preservation Fund for survey and inventory through the State Historic Preservation Office. In 2002, the award funded the research of the “Historic Westside” area.

The rediscovery of the origins of the Berkley Square neighborhood in West Las Vegas, a post-World War II subdivision marketed to African Americans, began with a chance newspaper research find during this 2002 survey. (Figure 1) Two newspaper articles published in December 1949 announced the opening of a new subdivision named “Westside Park,” with 155 tract houses designed by a “famed” African American architect, Paul Revere Williams.(1) Because the development site was outside the 2002 survey boundaries in an area now called Berkley Square, this information became a side note in the historic context statement.

In 2004, discussions about moving the La Concha Motel’s mid-century, free-form concrete lobby again raised the name of architect Paul R. Williams. (Figure 2) Williams was well known for his movie-star homes and public buildings in Los Angeles, such as Frank Sinatra’s Trousdale estate and the Los Angeles County Courthouse. With the potential connection to the West Las Vegas subdivision in mind, the City of Las Vegas Historic Preservation Commission began discussing Berkley Square as a possible survey area for the 2004 National Park Service grant.

Several issues complicated the decision to survey this area. The 1949 articles referred to a development called Westside Park, but the subdivision was now called Berkley Square, with county assessor information showing construction dates of 1954-55. What happened between 1949 and 1954? Were the Berkley Square homes actually designed by Williams? All the Historic Preservation Commission had to go by were documents describing a land sale and a current photograph of a house that resembled the architect’s sketch accompanying the 1949 articles. The Commission voted to include Berkley Square in the 2004 survey and hired a historic preservation consultant, Diana Painter of Painter Preservation and Planning, to document the neighborhood and solve the mystery.

Painter began by documenting and photographing all buildings within the neighborhood, providing a Nevada State Historic Resource Inventory Form for each. A historic context statement was prepared to help assess the importance of the properties within the contexts of Las Vegas history and mid-century residential design. In addition, research was conducted at the historical society, local libraries and museums, and the Environmental Design Library at the University of California at Berkeley. Painter also used information from a previous interview with Karen Hudson, Williams’s granddaughter. From this research, she was able to stitch together compelling arguments for a probable link to the Los Angeles architect as well as for eligibility for listing on the National Register of Historic Places.

Besides attracting a famous clientele and important public commissions, Williams was the first black architect to become a member of the American Institute of Architects and served on the California Housing Commission and the California Redevelopment Commission. He published two pattern books on small houses, Small Home of Tomorrow (1945) and New Homes for Today (1946).(2) By 1949, he had won three national competitions for small home design, and he would eventually design military housing and other housing stock for subdivisions. According to his granddaughter, the modernized ranch house became his specialty.

Williams’s design for Berkley Square filled a desperate need for adequate housing in West Las Vegas. Platted by surveyor J.T. McWilliams in 1905, settlement began as a wayside for miners. It was hoped that the arrival of the railroad would bring prosperity, but these hopes were unrealized. The railroad company owned most of the land east of the completed tracks, as well as all of the water rights, effectively controlling development for decades.

During the 1930s, McWilliams’s Townsite, now called “the Westside,” had few permanent buildings, but blacks were free to own businesses and live on the east side of town. Subsequent segregation practices in Las Vegas forced most of the black families to relocate to the Westside. Well into the 1940s, the area lacked basic amenities such as sewer and paved streets, with sometimes two or more families living in small, one-room wood shacks. Low-income minorities and whites continued to find refuge here, with the black population having the strongest cultural presence. A community of churches, businesses, and nightclubs was formed using the residents’ own resources and ingenuity. Adequate housing lagged far behind, however, especially during and after World War II, when many black soldiers returned home or residents lost their jobs at the local Air Force base or military industrial plants.

Westside Park/Berkley Square was the result of “four years of planning, designing and negotiating with government officials, by a group of local businessmen endeavoring to make the first real contribution to improvement of conditions on the city’s Westside.”(3) It was sorely needed in 1947, when the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) began discussions with the City of Las Vegas to develop a “new 2-bedroom project for colored people…with Federal Housing insured loans.”(4) The property changed hands several times, but finally in 1954 with new owners, Edward A. Freeman and J.J. Byrnes, the subdivision was recorded as Berkley Square with 148 lots on 22 acres.

The new “Berkley Square” name came from Thomas L. Berkley, of Oakland, California. Berkley was a distinguished African American attorney, media owner, developer, civil rights advocate, and a frequent guest at the White House during the Kennedy and Johnson administrations. It was in his civil rights capacity that he became partial financier of Berkley Square. An article in the Las Vegas Review Journal from April 1954 stated that Berkley Square was “the first minority group subdivision to be approved for construction in the state of Nevada.”(5)

Painter’s report established Berkley Square’s eligibility for nomination to the National Register of Historic Places as the first subdivision in Nevada built by and for African Americans. The subdivision contributed to improved living conditions for the community and represented the progress of local civil rights activism. In addition, Berkley Square is significant for its association with attorney Berkley and architect Williams. The neighborhood of suburban one-story ranch houses also retains much of its architectural integrity

Berkley Square is officially a Historic Place

It's official!  Berkley Square, designed by mid-century modern architect, Paul Revere Williams, was the first subdivision to be built in Nevada by and for African-American residents of Las Vegas.  It is now on the National Registry of Historic Places!

 

The historic Berkley Square Neighborhood, located in West Las Vegas, has been listed in the National Register of Historic Places.  The Register, a National Park Service Program, is the nation’s official list of cultural resources worthy of recognition and preservation. The city of Las Vegas Planning & Development Department nominated the neighborhood on behalf of the Berkley Square residents after a consultant’s report found that the neighborhood met the National Register criteria for historic district designation.

  “I am thrilled that the National Park Service has recognized this important and historic neighborhood. This is truly an incredible honor for our community,” Ward 5 Councilman Ricki Y. Barlow said.  

 The Berkley Square Historic District is located about one and one-half miles from downtown Las Vegas near Owens Avenue and D Street, and is bound by Byrnes and Leonard avenues on the north and south, respectively, and G and D Streets on the west and east, respectively.

The district includes 148 homes constructed in 1954-55 in the Contemporary Ranch style with two models that varied by roof type, porch overhang and façade finishes and fenestration. The neighborhood was designed according to Federal Housing Administration standards of the day, showing concern for traffic and pedestrian safety with limited access points and sidewalks separated from the streets by a grass strip.

Berkley Square is the first subdivision to be built in Nevada by and for African-American residents of Las Vegas. It was designed in 1949 by Paul R. Williams, an internationally-known African-American architect from Los Angeles who made great strides for his race in the profession.

The developers and builders comprise an A-list of prominent African-American community activists and civic leaders, including financier Thomas L. Berkley, an attorney, media owner, developer and civil rights advocate from Oakland, Calif. It was also financed by Edward A. Freeman and J. J. Byrnes of Los Angeles. The developer was Leonard A. Wilson of Las Vegas. Construction was supervised by Harry L. Wyatt of the Las Vegas firm Burke and Wyatt.  Massie L. Kennard, a Las Vegas civil rights leader, was the real estate agent.

Berkley Square contributed to improving living conditions for the city’s African-American community, and represented the advances that were being made as a result of local activism in the community in the late 1940s and early 1950s. It is additionally representative of the massive building boom that took place in Las Vegas and across the country in the post-war era, and retains good integrity as a residential suburb of that time.

 

More Las Vegas Memories

YouTube is a treasure trove of Classic Las Vegas home movie footage.  Take a walk down memory lane with some of these great YouTube videos:

From Ray Lindstrom, 1956 Las Vegas Strip

 

 

From Elmer Gerlock, 1957 Las Vegas Strip and Fremont Street.  Love the shot of the Golden Nugget neon billboard.

 

 

From yooreds, Las Vegas Strip circa 1976

The Walter Zick/Mid-Century Modern Event

 

Moderator Lynn Zook (far left), Karen Zick Goff, Claire Zick Walker and Alan Hess

 

We had a terrific time on Saturday, October 3rd shining the spotlight on Walter Zick and his partner Harris Sharp at our all day event.

The Docents and Volunteers for the Nevada State Museum, Las Vegas prepared a wonderful spread of light finger food, punch and champagne.  The anticipated overflow crowd made us move into the History Gallery for the panel.  Wise move, because we had almost 100 people in attendance.

Alan Hess talked about what Mid-Century Modern architecture, what it is and why it is important.  He also talked about "cultural amnesia".  Our past reminds us of who we are, what ideals mattered to us and also shows us how far (or not) we have come.  Mid-Century Modern Architecture, perhaps more than others forms of architecture, caught the zeitgeist of post-war America.  We were a brash, optimistic country, filled with big dreams and big plans.  MCM architecture was filled with much of that same brashness and optimism.  Throw in the space race and there seemed no limit to what we could achieve.

"Cultural amnesia" is what we commit, according to Alan, when we tear down our buildings, signage and neighborhoods only because they are old.  We lose those links to our past and we don't easily, if at all, get them back.

Alan then spoke at length about the Mint Hotel and why the design of that building and signage still tugs at our memories after all these years.

Walter Zick's daughters, Karen and Claire talked about how their dad had come to Las Vegas in the mid-1940s to work on the Flamingo Hotel.

They talked about growing up in the  Twin Lakes (today, Lorenzi Park) neighborhood where the NSM is located today.  The first home that their father designed and built for his family is less than a mile west of the Museum on Skolgund Circle.  The house included a 50 foot pool that became a homing beacon for pilots flying into Nellis Air Force Base.

Then it was time to get on the bus! and begin our tour of Walter Zick's Mid-Century Modern Las Vegas!

Our first stop was at the Bank of America on West Charleston.  It was originally a Bank of Las Vegas, then became a Valley Bank (where my family banked) and is today still in remarkable shape.  A drop ceiling, an upstairs addition and the loss of some original windows are the only changes apparent to the interior.

Sara Snodgrass, president of the AIA-S and keeper of our route and schedule and I proclaim proudly for the National Trust for Historic Preservation that "This Place Matters"

Back on the bus and across town we rode to UNLV, passing a number of Zick and Sharp commercial buildings as well as Irwin Molasky's former headquarters and James Brook McDaniel's famous flash cubes!

We rolled onto Maude Frazier Way to see the wonderful Zick and Sharp designed Flora Dungan Humanities Building.  It is our understanding that this early 1960s centerpiece of the campus for years is endangered.

Alan Hess points out important features inside Humanities.

 

FCLV members Joel Rosales and Judy Bundorf declare "This Place Matters" for the National Trust of Historic Preservation.

 

Back on the bus, to the east side of town to see the first pod school that Zick and Sharp designed, Valley High School.  Then it was on to a neighborhood filled with Mid-Century Modern gems as well as the weeping mortar/squish brick home that Zick and Sharp built for Mayme Stocker back in the mid-1940s.

Karen and Claire Zick declare "This Place Matters" for the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

While MaryJOY! Alderman conducted tours of her unique house, Jack LeVine, Friends of Classic Las Vegas supporter and the man behind VeryVintageVegas.com, led those who had taken the house tour down nearby Maria Elena Drive and showed them some stunning homes:

 

Then it was back on the bus and headed downtown to see the Foley Federal Building, the old Clark County Courthouse and the former Nevada Savings and Loan headquarters before our final stop at the Morelli House.  Though Zick and Sharp didn't design the Morelli House, the Junior League of Las Vegas was kind enough to open the house, provide tours and perhaps, most importantly, refreshments!

 

Dedee Nave and Junior League president, Judy Beale proclaim "This Place Matters" for the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

As it was getting towards twilight, we headed back to the Museum.

We passed by the Neon Museum and saw the three restored signs in the Cultural Corridor!

We arrived safely back and everyone declared it was a great day.  We hope to be able to do another event centered around Mid-Century Modern architecture next year. 

Alan Hess and I had so many people come up to us and thank us for showing them a side of Las Vegas that they were unaware of, for showing them what Mid-Century Modern architecture is and why it is important.  

Karen and Claire were thrilled to have the spotlight shown on their father for a day and were so happy to see the response to their dad's still standing legacy. 

Remember, all these places and more MATTER!  You can help us to preserve these buildings  by becoming a member of the Friends of Classic Las Vegas and a reader of VeryVintageVegas.com

 

Downtown Steve captures the spirit of the day!

Thank you one last time to everyone who came out for this event, from the reception/panel to those who got on the bus to

Barbara Slivac; the Docents and Volunteers of the NSM, the staff of the NSM, especially Dennis McBride and Tom Dyer;

Karen and Claire Zick;  Alan Hess;

the Friends of Classic Las Vegas; VeryVintageVegas.com; Atomic Age Alliance; the Junior League of Las Vegas;

Brian "Paco" Alvarez; Pam Hartley; Zane and Jenny Donaldson, MaryJOY! Alderman and Susan Dean.   A special shout-out to the staff of Dona Maria's Downtown for taking such good care of us at the after-event dinner that night.

And lastly, a special thanks to Michael Rosetti and the Double Decker Bus Company!

Let's do it again next year!